The Pantanal - Brazil 2016

Day 10 - SouthWild Pantanal Lodge

Tree-frog

We found we had finally got a bathroom frog, which unlike some, we don’t mind at all, same as a room gecko, no tropical trip is complete without one.

 

We were joined over breakfast and the daily bird feeding by the photo-group, with group leader waxing lyrical about the ‘amazing light’…so amazing it happens most mornings there. However, fair enough, it was good and did illuminate the pair of Toco Toucans superbly (now I’m using hyperbole).  

Toco Toucans
Whistling Heron

Plan for this morning was much the same as yesterday, and we had another session with the swooping birds taking the fish and a lazy cruise downstream this time for more bird shots.

 

We did get a reasonable view of both an agame heron and a sungrebe, to add to the collection.

 

The agame was the most challenging, it likes to hide in branches overhanging the water's edge, so it was difficult to get a clear view of it. We attempting several times to inch our way closer & closer, but the colourful heron would go deeper into the branches! All too late we did spot one behind us out on top of a tree in full sunlight... but it flew before either of us could get our cameras up to our eyes!

 

The sungrebe, however, was very kind and posed nicely in some calm water giving Liz a bonus reflection for her shots of it.

Then back to the lodge for lunch, before an afternoon drive to try and see another giant anteater in the safari vehicle.

 

We slowly drove back to the entrance and headed north along the Transpantaneira. We saw plenty of termite mounds lit by the afternoon sun, marsh deer, parakeets and hyacinth macaws but alas no anteater.

It's all about timing...

 

For our return to the lodge and today's sundowner, Naun had timed it well to coincide with the setting sun and alonf with the dusty atmosphere, it made for some nice landscape shots. We stopped just into the entrance to the Lodge, off the Transpantaneira, and enjoyed our drinks whilst watching the sky change from blue, to orange to red. I made the whole group laugh by saying getting great sunset shots was all about timing….and then missed the best shot as a large bird flew across the scene as I was opening my can of beer! 

 

Still it was a great way to end our last full day in the Pantanal, and we returned to the lodge for our last Brazilian dinner, which was very good, washed down with a good many Caipirinhas, as we enjoyed chatting with our tour group buddies about travels past and future plans.

Day 11 - SouthWild Pantanal Lodge to São Paulo

We again enjoyed the ‘amazing light’ for one last morning of lazy bird photography over breakfast.

 

The Toucans made their usual appearance along with the bare-faced curassow pair... the southern caracara was course no more.

 

On the other side of the lodge were the smaller birds, palm tanager, saffron finches & yellow-billed cardinals.

Last guided exploration of the Pantanal

We met up with Naun & the others for another guided wildlife spot. This time it was a morning walk in the forest, again to try and spot the marmosets. Whilst we failed in this mission, we did see the Potoo was again in his tree, and spotted some fresh jaguar tracks, amongst others (coati), on the trail, confirming that guests do occasionally see them here, usually hunting along the river banks. There were also a number of woodpeckers and tree creepers, difficult to photograph as usual, hiding behind the branches and trunks.

We returned to the Lodge, finalised our packing, and said goodbye to the staff who had been excellent.

 

We left at 11am. This time in an A/C minibus rather than the safari truck, for our 3 hour, 160km drive back to the airport at Várzea Grande. It was a lot less dusty, but equally had a lot less visibility and we stopped once for a comfort stop at Pocone and again very briefly (2 minutes) so Naun could say hello to his wife, who also works for SouthWild.

 

At the airport, our bags were unloaded, and we said a last goodbye to Naun, and thanked him for his excellent guiding work and company. We all checked in for our 2.5 hour Azul airlines flight back to SAO, and then had lunch in the food court area near the departure gates.

 

The Azul flight was pretty good, some inflight entertainment (live tv) and free drinks and as many snacks as you liked, in fact all the range, whether you wanted them or not!

 

We landed on time at Terminal 1 at SAO, after sunset, and said goodbye to Cathy and Anna who were flying home next day with BA. We caught the internal shuttle bus (no way to walk from Terminal 1), which dropped Kim off at Terminal 2 for her hotel, prior to her flight to Rio for the Olympics, and then Liz, Chris and I carried on to Terminal 3 to bag drop for our LATAM flight back to LHR.

 

We had a 3 hour layover, so had time for a drink and more chat about travel, before we boarded and left on time at 23.55. 

Day 12 - UK

The flight was fine, I got a bit of sleep, and landed about an hour early at 2pm, which helped with getting a good start to our trip back up the M40 home, in about 2.5 hours with a short stop for provisions.

 

It was a fantastic trip and we would be happy to return for more jaguar experiences, plus the other magnificent and varied wildlife that the Pantanal can offer. 

Naturetrek provide a checklist for each person on the tour so you can mark off the animals that you have spotted each day. As a group we accepted Naun's offer to go through the list together at the end of each day so we could check off what we had seen... here is our list:

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