We left home extra early after having completed all our house jobs. For the first time, the long stay car park was almost full! I guess that was due to it being mid-week (we usually fly at the weekend). Fortunately there was a space against the fence where Alan likes to park and we were soon on a transfer bus to Terminal 5.
We were so early for our flight we couldn’t check-in, so we had a meal in the departures area before security. By the time we had eaten it was 3 hours before the flight and time to drop our bags. BA are introducing ‘do-it-yourself’ check-in and bag drop, so we had to print our own luggage labels, fix them to the bags and wave them off on the belt ourselves. After these flights we would be back up to Bronze with BA Executive Club again so it will hopefully be the last time we have to do the DIY check-in.
There was no queue through security and we used the remaining time to do some shopping… a new bigger memory card for Alan’s camera.
We got onto the plane relatively quickly and started to back up from the gate when we suddenly stopped. The captain announced that our tug had broken down and we had to wait for a replacement. We finally took off nearly an hour after our scheduled time.
The flight was relatively smooth, we had World Traveller Plus seats (Premium Economy) so we had a little extra space and the meals were slightly better than in Economy. We had several movies to catch-up on and I watched two before I attempted to get some sleep on this 14 hour flight. Think I may have slept for all of 2 hours before I started to watch movies again!
Our delayed start had brought us into Santiago 40 minutes late, we hadn’t managed to make up the time due to strong head winds. I had completed our custom cards on the plane so we were ready for boarder control but it wasn’t ready for us. There must have been 2 or 3 flights arriving from Europe at once so we had about a 40 minute queue to wait in. Good news is by the time we got through our bags were waiting for us.
Through customs next, where all our bags, including hand luggage had to be scanned before we could exit into arrivals. Arrivals was chaos, people were just standing chatting blocking the way out! Alan seemed to get some enjoyment out of hitting a few ankles as he literally rammed his way out of the exit! It was quicker for us to cross the road and re-cross it again to get to departures than it was to negotiate ourselves around the chatting people.
Once we finally got to check-in for our next flight we found only a short queue. I had worried just a little about the weight of our hand luggage, it being twice the allowance, however, I needn’t have been concerned as it wasn’t even looked at let alone weighed.
No queue at security and we were through to the very familiar departure area from our last Chile trip where we had been in and out of so many times… but it wasn’t so familiar! Our favourite restaurant had been replaced with a McDonalds! So we ate at our second favourite Restaurant Tamarugo. Struggling to decide what to eat, the waiter helped make up our minds by suggesting the salmon special. The grilled salmon and salad came with toast and along with 2 Pepsi lights and 3 large beers the bill came to 46,300 pesos. The free airport WiFi worked well and we spent a couple of hours relaxing before it was time to head to our gate.
LATAM use the numbered seat queuing system and as we had seats in row 20 we got to the head of the rows 1-25 queue. We started a trend and everyone else then queued up. A couple of minutes later boarding started. We managed to put our bags above our heads and settled in to enjoy the stunning view of the mountains, lakes and glaciers as we flew down the length of Chile. There was no in-flight entertainment so the view out the window was what kept us entertained as we took a quick stop at Puerto Montt to drop off passengers and pick up some more. The views over Los Glaciares & Torres del Paine National Parks were enough even to stop Alan from sleeping… or was it me elbowing him that kept him awake!
We landed on time just after 7pm, collected our luggage and met out guide and driver. A short 15 minute drive from the airport and we were arriving at out hotel in Punta Arenas. After a quick shower and a drink our head hit our pillows and we were asleep by 9pm.
After an excellent night’s sleep we awoke around 6am and started to get ready for an early breakfast. We had the morning free, so we went out to explore Punta Arenas. We walked to the main town square where we introduced ourselves to Ferdinand Megellan (well, his memorial statue). It’s traditional to kiss his foot, which is supposed to give you safe travels and stop sea sickness… Alan settled for a foot tickle instead. We walked along the sea front and called into the Craft Centre but we were a little too early for lunch. We ended up in Café Imago in front of our hotel, where service was very slow (we had time) and chatted with three chaps from Canada that had been exploring South America for the last few weeks.
After a drink in the bar it was time to meet up with our guides Rodrigo & Mauricio. Rodrigo worked for Far South Expeditions (the local company managing the whole trip on behalf of Naturetrek) and Mauricio worked for Southwild (they have an exclusive arrangement with the owners of Olga Teresa Ranch to allow access to the condor roosting site). We had a whole mini-bus to ourselves and the roosting site too.
Olga Teresa Ranch is reportedly the most accessible location in the world to see the Andean condor, the world’s heaviest flying animal. The ranch, known as an estancia in Spanish, has a population of around 100 condors. The estancia has a 200 metre high hill (700 ft) with a vertical rock face embedded into it. The condors sleep at a height of approximately 20 metres on the rock face.
On the way to the estancia we stopped to photograph some rhea (which we had missed the opportunity to capture during our last visit to Chile). When we arrived at the roosting site there were no condors in sight! We watched a black-chested buzzard eagle family for a while before our guides decided to take us to see some flamingos instead. We stopped along the way for a skunk, but we didn’t manage to get any photos before it dove into a bush, the only bush along that stretch of fence!
The flamingos were a little too far away for decent photos so we headed back towards Punta Arenas. I spotted an owl, so our driver turned around and drove us back to the short-eared owl, who had kindly decided to land and wait for me to get some shots before flying off again.
We got back to the hotel at 6:30pm and got ready to meet our main guide and the rest of the Just Puma tour group. We met Sebastian, our guide at 8pm… to find we were the only ones to be joining him for our welcome dinner! The other two couples had been delayed between Sao Paulo & Santiago resulting in them missing their flight down to Punta Arenas. They would be stopping in the Santiago airport until the early hours of the next morning and would be arriving at the hotel around 5am. We were very pleased we had chosen to pay extra to fly out with BA!
We enjoyed our private dinner with Sebastian and discussed the activities for the next six days, before heading off for a nice night’s sleep in the hotel.